Three weeks in 2006 did not provide nearly enough time to see so much so I rented an apartment in BA for the month of February, and took little trips out from there to Ushuaia, Mendoza and Uruguay. While in Ushuaia I toured Tierra Del Fuego National Park, rode the Tren Del Fin Del Mundo (Train at the end of the world), and took a boat ride down the Beagle Channel. In Mendoza I toured the vineyards and olive fincas. I took the Buquebus catamaran from Buenos Aires across the River Plata to Colonia, Uruguay, then took a bus to Montevideo. I spent some time there, then rented a car and drove down to Punte Del Este. I flew from Punte Del Este to Buenos Aires and explored that region more including the ride on the Tren De La Costa to El Tigre.
I eventually learned that the general shopping district, particularly for tourists, is in this area near Florida and Maipu avenues in downtown Buenos Aires.
I settled into my condo in BA and soon visited the Buquebus Terminal located in the Puerto Madero barrio. I was determined this time to get to Ushuaia and somewhere in the "wine country." Donaldo was coming for a visit, and Jose's birthday was a firm date to be back in BA. Mind you, Ingles is not commonly spoken in these parts, and I knew darn little Espanol.
I ventured into the terminal and made my way to the excursion offices. I tried to decipher the signs and brochures, but was very hindered. I took a number and waited for my turn with an agent. "Bing," the chime indicated a vacancy, and it was my turn. I sat in front of the huge desk looking at a lovely Argentine woman, and began in English. She quickly, almost coldly, told me that she did not speak English, nor did anyone there, and was dismissive. I persisted in my broken Spanish, and suddenly the young lady warmed up when she realized that I was trying to learn their language, even breaking into English from time to time. She was much more helpful after I admitted that my Spanish was quite limited, and she responded that her English was poor, too. We laughed; I told her it was fine, and we began to negotiate a trip. The best choice for me was a five day trip, flying out of Jorge Newberry airport, to Ushuaia. I opted for a package deal, not having any concept of what was out there, and included lodging, and a couple of tours in Ushuaia. More of this on the Ushuaia page.
I began to learn my way around BA, walking a great deal, and catching taxis when tired, or when the destination was very distant. The condo was in Recoleta, with stores, restaurants, parks and virtually anything one might desire within walking range.
I'd known since the 2006 trip that I would surely return with more time to explore, and similarly to the manner in which Sandy influenced me to take that trip sooner than I had planned, good friend Jose prompted me for this journey. In 2006 Jose told me that he would be going to BA to celebrate his birthday, and he casually invited me to join him for that. I immediately responded that I would be there, and the planning began.
I'd invited Donaldo for a visit, and he took me up on that. I had the first couple weeks alone, then Don arrived, and soon after Jose would come along for his celebration.
I still wanted to get to the wine making region, and Mendoza was suggested. It seems that Mendoza is the primary area to send tourists, but check that story out on the Mendoza page. I received better advice to visit Cordoba, and next time I'm going there. Don would be there for the Mendoza trip, and we tasted wine, and ogled the girls.
Back in BA we had time to take the Tren de la Costa to El Tigre. Visit the El Tigre page for that adventure.
We got day passes for a few pesoes that permitted us to get on and off the ride as needed for all that day. We'd made a slight tactical error by getting caught up in the BA night life. The local folks dine late, and stay up all night, every night it seems, so this day we got a late start. In retrospect I would start the train ride early, and check out the various stations for interests. Nevertheless we had time to board a tour boat that took us on a three hour tour. When we returned to the dock we walked over to the Trilenium Casino to sample a fine caipirinha, and lose a few pesoes.
I'd told Donaldo of the marvelous lasagna I'd had in Bariloche in 2006, and he agreed to search for some with me. We had a couple so-so dishes before we hit the motherlode. As our language skills improved we conversed more with the locals, and one taxi driver took us to Palermo for the first time, exclaiming that there were many fine restaurants there. He drove us around expounding the prime characteristics of the various parillas, some famous for their steaks, and others for their particular genre. La Baita was known for it's meats, and all their fare was acclaimed. We ate there several times returning for the lasagna two or three times. Highly recommended.
We returned many times to Puerto Madero too for fun, food and fancy. I may lodge there next time. There is lots of activity, although it is more "touristy." This is where the TGI Fridays and Hooters are located, so that tells something about it.
We had a great time everywhere, but had many wonderful experiences right in Recoleta. Donaldo had wanted to visit the milongas, and to attempt the tango, but we were always so occupied that we never got that far. The closest tango experience was in the park, when instructors from one on the local houses were giving brief sidewalk lessons to try to enroll people in their school.
Eventually Jose flew in, and we got together when circumstances permitted, but we also prepared for his big day to come. Jose's birthday party would take place at the Rodizio finca or farm about sixty kilometers outside of BA. That turned out to be another awesome day.
Jose is originally from Uruguay he wanted to visit some old friends there, and invited Donaldo and me along, so of course the game was on. We finally got to go on one of the actual buquebus boats, departing from Puerto Madero to arrive in the quaint little town of Colonia where we had some lunch, and explored the town a little. We rented three motor scooters and set off around the town. While in Colonia we climbed to the top of that lighthouse seen here as we approach on the catamaran. It grew late and time for the next leg of this tour so we caught a bus to the capital city of Montevideo, another of my childhood desires achieved. Fortunately the buses are comfortable and air conditioned. We traveled for a few hours to arrive there, and checked into a hotel owned by one of Jose's friends. The weather was wonderful, but sweltering with very high humidity.
The next day we explored the city more, visited Jose's friends, then rented a car for the drive down to Punte Del Este, the Miami Beach of Uruguay.